Staged Upgrades

Most other car related sites have a list of staged upgrades, we don't! I've put this list together today, note that this is it's first draft and not a set of rules. I want to see what others have to say. Also not too sure if things like springs and wheels should or shouldn't be included, let me know what you want! It isn't going to focus much on maintaining the car, everyone who is modifying their car should have nothing but Fully Synthetic (capitalised intentionally) 0w30 oil that is less than 5000km old at all times, a functioning O2 sensor, clean driveline oils, etc.

1st Stage:

Cat-back exhaust system
Decat (if legal in your country)
Manual Boost Controller, Boost Gauge (optional)
Replace Spark Plugs and check Leads

2nd Stage:

K&N or Ralliart Panel Filter
Downpipes
Upgraded Intercooler
Replace Stock Blow Off Valve

3rd Stage:

17-18" wheels, aim for around 8" wide and 35-40mm offset. Allow for Brembo clearance if you are considering them
EBC Red pads (or similar) for fast road driving or Carbotech's for track use
Replacement Springs or full Coil Over system

4th Stage:

Hard Piping kit - possibly combine with Cold Air Box and Battery to boot
Fuel Pump such as Walbro or similar
Rear upper strut brace (Legnum's Only)

5th Stage:

Fuel Controller, Piggy Back or Full ECU
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Removal of MAF and change to MAP with compatible ECU's

6th Stage:

Turbo Upgrade
Forged Internals
Larger Fuel Injectors
(no need for further explanation, most people should be smart enough to do their own research at this stage)

Brad, I would pull fuel controller out of stage 5 (leaving piggy back or full ecu) and place fuel controller in stage 2 to optimise upped boost, intercooler core and downpipes

Brad, I like the idea, but sorry i feel that the stage 1 and 2 should be in this order...

1st Stage:

Cat-back exhaust system
K&N or Ralliart Panel Filter
Replace Spark Plugs and check Leads

2nd Stage:

Manual Boost Controller, Boost Gauge (optional)
Upgraded Intercooler
Replace Stock Blow Off Valve

3rd Stage:

Dump Pipes
17-18" wheels, aim for around 8" wide and 35-40mm offset. Allow for Brembo clearance if you are considering them
EBC Red pads (or similar) for fast road driving or Carbotech's for track use
Replacement Springs or full Coil Over system
Replace Rubber Bushings with Polyurethane

4th Stage:

Hard Piping kit - possibly combine with Cold Air Box and Battery to boot
Fuel Pump such as Walbro or similar
Rear upper strut brace (Legnum's Only)
Upgraded Swaybars (Front and Rear)

5th Stage:

Fuel Controller, Piggy Back or Full ECU
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Removal of MAF and change to MAP with compatible ECU's
Underbody Brace

6th Stage:

Turbo Upgrade
Forged Internals
Larger Fuel Injectors
(no need for further explanation, most people should be smart enough to do their own research at this stage)

7th Stage

Forged Transmission, Transfer Case and Rear Diff Internals

Hey guys, figured this was the best post to ...ummm ... post this question.

I was following the HPI magazine a while back when they were doing the legnum build (one of the ozVR4 cars wasn't it?) and was wondering if and when any of the items they were custom making will be available to purchase? was it HDi that were making these parts (intercooler etc?) Either way...does anyone know who I need to contact (and what that contact no. is) to enquire? Or can you guys answer it here perhaps?

The reason I ask is that I like the idea of being able to buy a ready made upgrade package that someone has already tried and tested on the VR4 and I know will be reliable and efficient. (I apologise if this idea of 'upgrading' ones car offends some of you)

Be good also to put in expected power increase and maybe even 1/4 mile time estimate.

Alex, exhaust systems, cooler pipes can be done at any recommended engineering company that deals with piping work. Or buy one of the kits here on the forum that include a core, do a search.

The other things like BOV, boost controller, suspension stuff, brakes stuff, just go online or to a shop again. No one is selling these kind of kits in stages like they do on some of the american forums, i.e. supra store... could be a good idea though?

I think you need to separate out the handling mods from engine power mods.

Including both isn't appropriate as neither have any dependence on the other. Not only that, people have different goals which may or may not require those mods. For example, someone who wants an all out drag car will not find any handling upgrades essential.


This is how I would stage upgrading (and pretty much how I am going about it)

Note: prices and hp estimates are estimates only. Prices will vary depending on what you buy and where you get it from.


Engine/drive train:

1st Stage: ~300hp (Based on my results)
K&N or Ralliart Panel Filter $100
Spark Plugs 1 heat range colder $100
Manual Boost Controller $50
Boost Gauge $80
Upgraded Intercooler $300
Replace Stock Blow Off Valve $200

2nd Stage: ~350hp (if your fuel pump can handle it, based on my results)
Full exhaust system including down pipes $1000
Hard Piping kit - Standard airbox and AFM $500

3rd Stage: No gain as such
Fuel Pump such as Walbro or similar $200
Fuel Pressure Regulator $200
Engine Oil cooler with thermostat $500
Oil temp and pressure gauges $200

4th Stage: ~400hp (based on brads results)
Fuel Controller, Piggy Back or Full ECU $2000
Larger Fuel Injectors $1000

5th or 6th Stage: ?
Head work - cam gears, porting etc $?
Forged Internals $?

6th or 5th Stage: ?
Turbo Upgrade $?

7th Stage:
Transmission $?
Transfer Case $?
Diffs $?



Handling/brakes:
Stage 1:
Better brake pads
Replacement Springs or full Coil Over system
Rear upper strut brace (Legnum's Only)

Stage 2:
Brembos + Wheels

Stage 3:
Underbody Bracing
Upgraded Swaybars (Front and Rear)
Replace Rubber Bushings with Polyurethane

Christian - I think a boost controller should be as early as possible, considering the amount of improvement in performance.

fair enough..

i think from memory that is what i've installed first than the spark plugs...

Ummhh... yeah... staged upgrades plan... ok.

1) VR-4
2) RS-6

PS: j/k

valmes said:

Ummhh... yeah... staged upgrades plan... ok.

1) VR-4
2) RS-6

PS: j/k

Click to expand...

:bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile:

i think a transmission cooler for the autos in stage one or 2 would b a good idea

Why put a boost controller in before a boost guage? <--- I just think that is wrong.

My way of thinking, You install a boost guage then you can see how much boost you are running. Other wise you have no idea what you are running.

0-30w not in my 90k motor causes more problems than what its worth.
5-30w works better.

I would ditch the leads and go for the MSD Ignition coil packs/controller =)
I love this mod!

hey guys i am still pissing and moaning about this but it is my main concern regarding modifying. You recommend forging the transmission what does this involve and anyone know a rough guesstimate as this is a top priority for me and i would like to get it done asap before i put any real power down so far i only have a heavy duty auto cooler

At no stage did I say forged transmission! I said forged internals, meaning engine internals. The manual gearbox will take 800hp. The autos.....well they can barely handle stock power. The trans cooler you have is a good start though, you should also replace the 10 litres of oil in it with Amsoil ATF or Mitsi SPIII

bradc said:

At no stage did I say forged transmission! I said forged internals, meaning engine internals. The manual gearbox will take 800hp. The autos.....well they can barely handle stock power. The trans cooler you have is a good start though, you should also replace the 10 litres of oil in it with Amsoil ATF or Mitsi SPIII

Click to expand...

Lets see how this one of mine goes, if after rebuilding it all holds together fine with that level of power, then it comes down to either how well they have been maintained by the the previous owner in japan, and how cool the oil is
Kept with the current owner.

If it falls to pieces again, then I will admit that the W5A51 is a weak piece of turd, and upgrade to a manual.

You can supposedly strengthen some of the internals of the auto, most trans specialists like MV automatics can do it.

EDIT: Just called MV autos and what they can offer is to exchange the valve bodies, as in you send yours in and they post it back after they finish modifying it. What this achieves is much tighter and quicker shifts and takes the strain off the clutch packs. Cost is $385. This dude Michael seems to think that our autos are actually pretty strong.

Madhav said:

I will admit that the W5A51 is a weak piece of turd, and upgrade to a manual.

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Madhav, you know what they say about polishing turds

From what I've read, the tiptronic transmissions seem to be made of glass, unless its been molly coddled straight out of the factory, fitted with a cooler, regularly serviced, and given a full body massage every now and again.

In this respect, I agree with chrisssss in that if you own a tiptronic, the first mod you should do is a full transmission flush and fit a cooler, even at stock power levels.

Bradc, you mention that the manual gearboxes will take a heap more power - is this for a fully bog stock manual transmission? I.e. Is the manual gearbox one of the last things one needs to mod?

really? 800hp for the manual box? so assuming my car sticks to the trend of the manual boxes, i shouldnt have any issues with it till i have alot more power? (launching etc is my main concern)

The thing is though with the auto boxes is that they can just die at any time for no apparent reason, you never know when one will just give up!

Josh - there are guys in the USA running less than 10 second quarter passes with basically stock gearboxes. At that level they cryo treat them, but that is about it. If you are doing launches you will explode the transfer case and the gears on the diff before the gearbox even notices

sorry bradc it was not u who said forged transmission it was some one earlier in the forum they put it at stage 7, i dunno from what i have researched its hit and miss guess were in the same boat madhav i'm with u if it breaks go to a manual transmission lol

VR4 NOOB

bradc said:

Josh - there are guys in the USA running less than 10 second quarter passes with basically stock gearboxes. At that level they cryo treat them, but that is about it. If you are doing launches you will explode the transfer case and the gears on the diff before the gearbox even notices

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I own a manual, so how easy would it be to break the transfer case and the gears in the diff?
Josh what RPM do you launch at normally?