Few error codes, wanting some help. CEL - TCL OFF - Battery - TCL flashing

[Wiggles]

Hey guys,

On my way home this today my battery light came on and almost straight away the "TCL OFF" light, "ABS" light and the "TCL(skidding car)" light came on. The TCL light is flashing constantly. I noticed though when I came to a stop only the battery light came on. Let the car idle and revved it a little and all the lights came back on again.

For a while I've been having my "TCL OFF" and CEL lights come on, which I put down to the TCL solenoids having issues.

Did an error check and I have:

AYC: 12 voltage power supply (supply valve) system (short or break)
CEL: 64 FR Alternator System Terminal and 71 Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve System <T / C-A / T>
TCL: 77 TCL vacuum system or ventilation solenoid

So looks like my TCL solenoids are causing CEL 71 and TCL 77

Would a faulty alternator be causing CEL 64? Could that also be causing the battery light to come on(Low voltage)? And could that also be causing AYC 12? The battery is reading 12.4 with the car off, 16.5 when the engine is on, 19 when revving and sitting at 12.9 after the checks when the car is off.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Grey_Ghost]

16.5 is way too high. 19 is magic smoke voltages.

 

[Wiggles]

Awesome.

Here's a link to me checking it again.

 

[Razor]

Alternator in mine charges at 14.4 when it is working as intended. 16 is crazy high.
Before my alternator died I was getting random lights come and go on the dash during the drive to Winton. My alternator was starting and stopping intermittently until it eventually gave up completely.

If any of the systems you are having trouble with depend on voltage and resistance power spikes from the alternator starting and stopping could throw them off.
Just a thought.

 

[naughtika]

To wiggles, theres issue with your alternator's regulator.. get that check immediately.. itll fry a whole lot more than wires if that continues..

As for the tcl turning off.. check the white canister for micro cracks

 

[Wiggles]

Cheers mate. I'll get it checked ASAP. Good thing I'm looking at a cheap run about this weekend

 

[Wiggles]

Is it possible to replace the regulator in the car? Or easier to just pull it out?

 

[Kaldek]

Whoa yeah that is danger danger territory at 19 volts, with possible magic smoke from the expensive bits like ABS controller and ECU! It will also burn out headlights rapidly.

Pretty sure the regulator is a fundamental part of the alternator. Unsure if you can remove and replace it as it's computer controlled by the car's ECU if I recall.

Older cars had a dedicated regulator which would perform a rather basic control of the field windings in the alternator housing based on the voltage it sensed. These cars have the voltage sensor in the ECU or other body computers, and the computer sends commands to the alternator to control the field windings.

New alternators cost ~$300. They will be a Reproduction model (often called a "Reepo").

I'm not sure if there are known problems with the voltage sensor rather than the alternator. My old motorbike had a dedicated "sensor" wire which was known to corrode. The corrosion caused the sensor to see a low voltage, so it would command the regulator to crank out more volts, even though the actual voltage was fine. Boom, cooked batteries and other nasty stuff.

 

[Kaldek]

Also, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you fix this or it will cost you a lot more than a new alternator.

 

[Wiggles]

Car isn't going anywhere, don't stress. Already got a loan car lined up and looking at a run about tomorrow. After that, I'll clean out the shed so I can actually work on the thing! I'll pull the alternator out and take it to an auto elec to get assessed

 

[Kaldek]

I have a spare you can borrow to test if you like. I'm South east melbourne.