When I say starting to go, I now notice them on start-up. Where as I never heard them before. I am due for an oil change but even when due for a service before I never heard a tick. And it is winter. Having said that are my kms legit? Probably not. I am only considering the varied opinions regarding hydraulic lifters on here and that these are a maintenance item. Varnish deposits in the orifices due to poor service history will reduce the service life of the lifters. Should all of our lifters last 200 000kms plus? Do any others share the same experience?
List of Problems... Please add to it
- Thread starter frozen
- Start date
Mine is a PFL. Too warm, nah, you're just too coldFL or PFL? My Super started to tick some time after 100,000KM but my Galant FL has 130,000KM and no ticking at all. Simon is in too warm a climate for ticking lifters anyway
- much better places to eat though
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
This'll be part one through three of my car's current annoyances... I have already posted these vids in this thread... not gaining much traction though... if only i were prettier :'(
one
two
three
This is really starting to get my goat This car SHOULD not be doing this but.... it is.
I know there are several other people with almost this EXACT issue so, i am thinking that we're not alone.
What i have already done/tired:
replace IAC (idle air control)
clean MAF
replace BOV with EVO 8 MR one
and re-calibrated the TPS (throttle position sensor) as per outlines in manual.
Questions -- Could the MAF sensor be the issue? Could there be boost leaks causing this? Are there other issues that might be causing this??
I am skimp at the moment and i NEED this car running reliably... i NEED help from you guys.
one
two
three
This is really starting to get my goat
This car SHOULD not be doing this but.... it is.I know there are several other people with almost this EXACT issue so, i am thinking that we're not alone.
What i have already done/tired:
replace IAC (idle air control)
clean MAF
replace BOV with EVO 8 MR one
and re-calibrated the TPS (throttle position sensor) as per outlines in manual.
Questions -- Could the MAF sensor be the issue? Could there be boost leaks causing this? Are there other issues that might be causing this??
I am skimp at the moment and i NEED this car running reliably... i NEED help from you guys.
Gt_Galant
EC5A
When you start the car and it idling, if you then unplug the airflow meter does the car stay the same or does it idle very low like its going to turn off or does it start to idle better ?
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
remove the MAF while the car is running??
I've not done it, it has only ever been done when the car is off. Plugged in/removed. Never while the car is running.
Also... Idle is not actually the issue. It has always idled great. It is the rest of the rev range it seems to have issues with.
I've not done it, it has only ever been done when the car is off. Plugged in/removed. Never while the car is running.
Also... Idle is not actually the issue. It has always idled great. It is the rest of the rev range it seems to have issues with.
Gt_Galant
EC5A
My point is if you start the car and its idling on park, if you unplug (not removed the maf, I never said that because obviously it won't start) the maf plug only and if it idles very low like its about to die or if it dies chances are maf is good but if you unplug it idling and car sounds better or if it idles normal it could be the maf sensor stuffed.
because obviously it won't start) the maf plug only and if it idles very low like its about to die or if it dies chances are maf is good but if you unplug it idling and car sounds better or if it idles normal it could be the maf sensor stuffed.
Could be* but it is a bit of a cause and effect situation, unplugging the maf makes it default to a rich running condition for safety, so if any part of your fuel system is on its way out and not delivering under normal conditions, it will force it to work harder.
Add voltage regulator to mine now. Taken out several headlights and some interior bulbs.
Oooh, let's see...
Radiator cracked, several hoses perished.
Clutch thrust bearing was gone when I bought it.
Gearbox crunches into 5th, sometimes can't get 1/2. Leaks.
Ayc diff was rebuilt in late 2013.
Two coilpacks so far.
Blow off valve kept blowing off, currently have crappy plastic stocker.
Fixed rocker gasket leaks.
Replaced battery after Century *exploded* two weeks past warranty.
Replaced lower control arms because unknown history.
Broken spark plug.
All four coilovers have failed.
Bottom of the car is aerodynamic now, because of Midvalley. Replaced front exhaust section.
High pressure air con hose weeps.
Identify top end noise, and why there was metal in the last oil change. Now Using 10W40, will change at 3,000 and assess again.
It's two tone because of the broken wheel nuts, and has severe paint fade on bonnet and roof.
Do I want to get rid of it? No! Is it useful as a daily? No!
Oooh, let's see...
Radiator cracked, several hoses perished.
Clutch thrust bearing was gone when I bought it.
Gearbox crunches into 5th, sometimes can't get 1/2. Leaks.
Ayc diff was rebuilt in late 2013.
Two coilpacks so far.
Blow off valve kept blowing off, currently have crappy plastic stocker.
Fixed rocker gasket leaks.
Replaced battery after Century *exploded* two weeks past warranty.
Replaced lower control arms because unknown history.
Broken spark plug.
All four coilovers have failed.
Bottom of the car is aerodynamic now, because of Midvalley. Replaced front exhaust section.
High pressure air con hose weeps.
Identify top end noise, and why there was metal in the last oil change. Now Using 10W40, will change at 3,000 and assess again.
It's two tone because of the broken wheel nuts, and has severe paint fade on bonnet and roof.
Do I want to get rid of it? No! Is it useful as a daily? No!
hey Pauly, do you remember the part number/source for the upper ball joint? I can only find the upper arm as a whole unit.
Goof
Idling at the Lights
Ok, not sure where exactly is the best place to ask this, but here goes...
I have a 1996 twin turbo Legnum, it recently started slipping into limp mode and giving me engine error code 53 - Ignition coil no.3/no.6 cylinder - ...so last weekend I installed a COP kit and the error is gone, and it idles perfect, however as soon as I give it any throttle there are loud tinney-sounding pops coming from the engine bay and it doesn't deliver any of the power to the wheels.
I had replaced the spark plugs with ngk iridium bkr7eix or whatever they were and gapped them as close to .8mm as i could.
One thing i'm wondering whether it could be a factor... I stupidly didnt pay attention to which coils were running to which cylinders and installed the COP kit as I thought they reached the neatest. Could this cause anything like what i'm experiencing or should i be looking elsewhere for a solution?
I have a 1996 twin turbo Legnum, it recently started slipping into limp mode and giving me engine error code 53 - Ignition coil no.3/no.6 cylinder - ...so last weekend I installed a COP kit and the error is gone, and it idles perfect, however as soon as I give it any throttle there are loud tinney-sounding pops coming from the engine bay and it doesn't deliver any of the power to the wheels.
I had replaced the spark plugs with ngk iridium bkr7eix or whatever they were and gapped them as close to .8mm as i could.
One thing i'm wondering whether it could be a factor... I stupidly didnt pay attention to which coils were running to which cylinders and installed the COP kit as I thought they reached the neatest. Could this cause anything like what i'm experiencing or should i be looking elsewhere for a solution?
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