100,000km Major Service Parts List

[Mr Gears]

75W/85 in the manual transmission. 75W/90 will be OK. (maybe a bit of a stiff shift in winter).

Transfer case and rear diff need a EP oil suitable for Hypoid gearsets. An incorrect grade of oil will cause serious damage quikly. Use 80W/90 EP or 90 EP.

The AYC section in the rear diff needs ATF MM SP3. The boot resivoir for the AYC pump also uses this oil.

Mixng up the oils ie. wrong stuff in wrong hole will be EXPENSIVE.

Experimenting with the oils can also be expensive.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Please heed Brett's advice - I did a hell of a lot of research and asked a lot of stupid questions before I changed any of the oils in my car, so I'm supremely confident I have the right lubes where they're needed. This is an idiotic place to cut corners - correct lubrication will keep gears and metal components free of wear. Incorrect lubrication will allow metal to metal contact, resulting in cars more expensive to repair than replace.

I didn't know this... I put the same GL5 in my gearbox and transfer case. Could this be why my clutch is slipping after the service and not before? Could it be that I didn't need a new clutch after all (though I might, now that I've possibly borked it...)

Absolutely - if you've used too high a grade lubricant in your gearbox your clutch won't be able to grab, leading to at best longer gear shifts.

 

[mookers]

Absolutely - if you've used too high a grade lubricant in your gearbox your clutch won't be able to grab, leading to at best longer gear shifts.

For some reason I assumed that the GL rating was a minimum spec, and that GL5 was ok if the requirement was GL4.

I have a new clutch ready to go in, but is it possible that my old clutch is still OK? If I change the gearbox oil back to GL4 do you think it will come good? I could find other uses for the money at the moment.

 

[bradc]

no, GL5 is NOT ok, but it won't affect the clutch at all, only changing gears

 

[mookers]

So does that mean I should get the clutch replaced anyway? I don't have the facilities to put GL4 in the box by myself, so I have to get them done both at once (oil and clutch) if it's gonna be done.

 

[bradc]

If the clutch is slipping then yes it does need to be replaced.

 

[Guest]

Can somebody please post up an image of the water pump in there Galant/Legnum that they had to replace or if they got a spare lying around?

I need a photo to cross reference it with an aftermarket one I think may fit it! Since none of these cu@#$ list the EC5A Galant or Legnum!

Does anybody know if a FTO timing belt fit a Galant or legnum VR4? As its a similar configuration 6cyl engine ?

Thanks guys

 

[Guest]

how do you know you are right?
You have said in a previous thread in regards to engine oil that 0w30 would be best for our engines when the manual says 5w40 or 10w40 (cant remember) and that if 0w30 had existed then it would probably be within the limits and suggested by the manufacturer.

is it possible that this is the same case and that since they released the galants/legnums a higher grade oil has been developed and the workshop i spoke to is correct.

Altaaf - I'm right

 

[bradc]

Altaaf - not sure about the FTO's, they were 2L Mivec DOHC engines, might be similar.

Bill - yes because 0w30 is better that 5w30 or 10w30 by being more viscous when cold, which results in less engine wear and less friction when cold, when warm the oils are the same. And Mitsi actually say 5w30 and 10w30 are suitable. Not I'm not changing the hot rating, that is important!

You should NOT use 75w140 in the transfer case because while it is the same rating when cold, the hot rating is rediculously high and the oil will get too thick, also to create such a large cool-hot difference will require a large amount of viscosity improvers which break down in a short period of time and the oil weight rating goes to hell.

 

[Guest]

Altaaf - not sure about the FTO's, they were 2L Mivec DOHC engines, might be similar.

Bill - yes because 0w30 is better that 5w30 or 10w30 by being more viscous when cold, which results in less engine wear and less friction when cold, when warm the oils are the same. And Mitsi actually say 5w30 and 10w30 are suitable. Not I'm not changing the hot rating, that is important!

0w30 means its less viscous and therefore thinner at cold so it flows better on cold start up and can lubricate the engine quicker. why is not changing the hot side so important?

You should NOT use 75w140 in the transfer case because while it is the same rating when cold, the hot rating is rediculously high and the oil will get too thick, also to create such a large cool-hot difference will require a large amount of viscosity improvers which break down in a short period of time and the oil weight rating goes to hell.

how do you know this? other than the gearbox the transfer case is probably the hardest working part of the drivetrain. a thicker oil when hot would probably help reduce wear and tear and even if it does break down by the time you clock up the kms to do a change would it be thinner than 75w90?

Just out of curiosity, are you an oil expert?

 

[bradc]

Mitsi want you to use a certain hot viscosity, and for the engine oil, a lower cold rating is better for engine oil flow, but they still want you to use a 30 hot rating for the engine. Same thing for the transfer case. 140 or 90 or whatever doesn't mean the oil is better or worse quality, it is the viscosity level it is designed to run at. Our transfer cases don't want 140!

 

[Guest]

lol,

I'm with brad on this one,
if you want to stick something in your car that's not recommended...

go for it, but don't come back here crying,

why did XXXX break,

manufactures recommended grades for reasons,
not like they just pull random numbers out off there arse,

the info/spec's are there to protect you and your wallet,
if you choose to ignore it, i hope you have deep pockets filled with money to burn
diff/engine rebuilds arnt cheap.

.

 

[Guest]

do you think manufacturers of cars intend them to be modified. lots of things that you guys have on your cars are not recommended by manufacturers but you still mod your car.
at the end of the day i will take the word of a mechanic over the word of a wannabe mechanic on a forum (no offence intended). i may ask for a recommendation or opinion but they are taken lightly.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Fair enough Bill. But also remember that some people have been doing this research for years and we HAVE spoken to lubricant specialists and engineers. Topics like this have been kicking around on CVR4 for many years and over there they DO have a couple of resident lubricant experts.

No one expects anyone on a 'net forum to take what they type as gospel, but if someone with experience on here or any other forum gives you some advice, it would behoove you to do the research to find out for certain if that information is accurate or not. No offence, but taking the word of a mechanic, some guy who most likely dropped out of school at 15 and who's peak achievement in life is his ability to yank on a spanner over that of a number of people who know these cars (and engines in general) inside out is, well, misguided at best. You should approach anything he says with just as much skepticism as you would advice from the 'net.

But as Carsten said, its your car and your money - do as much or as little research as you care to. Just please, don't expect other people to prove themselves or the worth of their information just because you want further clarification - you have Google at your fingertips, make use of it.

 

[Guest]

you cant use information from the blokes on cvr4 because they deal with different weather conditions and need different grades of oil.

well considering they arent your typical run of the mill mechanic, they build and race evo's i take their opinion as a bit more highly than your local mechanic.
but this is true i am just as skeptical about their opinion as anyone else's

if your not going to back up your claims then done put them on here.

 

[Guest]

I have mentioned this before regarding temperatures in the UK that they can vary between -20 and +30 celsius where I live .There is also a huge amount of info regarding oils on CVR4 from Amsoil and OPIE. I don't know if you have joined the UK site but it would be worth your while to have a look there and ask either of those mentioned about the oils they supply and what there opinion of there use is in your own climate.

 

[Guest]

i don't even know why I'm bothering,

one+one,

wheres your backup/proof?
are you an oil expert??
common back it up!

TBH you seem like an arrogant Pratt know it all,

brad and i both live in NZ, it may not be as hot as oz,
but i would say similar-ish conditions.

we both have had legnum's/galants for 3-4 years at least,

i have always used a 5w40, 10w30, or 10w40 engine oil,
its what misti recommended, so it cant be far wrong, even in a slightly modded car, my motor hasn't died,

I've always serviced my car using the recommended grades/products, why coz misti spent alot of time/money building and researching.

the one time i used a non recommended oil, (in the gearbox) it was a complete pig at times, so switched back to recommended fluids. problems gone

any you say they build race evo's? its a race car, custom built motor with custom diffs,
which would get checked over quite often, (more than a road car anyway)

our vr4s are road going cars, which wouldn't get the attention a race car would.

and you know there is such a thing as to thick an oil..
which will put added stress on components and will create excessive ware and tare.
and lower your HP.

do your self a favor...
search and read and shut the **** up, and learn some shit instead of creating more verbal Daria

instead of coming on here and say my dogs best freinds, next door neighour who builds super dooper evos,
and is the greatest mechanic i know, i just want to hump his leg so much he's so great said...


.

 

[Guest]

i never claimed to know everything about oils etc i dont need to backup anything i said. i stated what a well respected shop informed me of simple. i was told the stress the transfer case gets put through requires a gear oil thats 75w140 wheres the gearbox needs 75w90. if that makes me a pratt well tbh i dont care.
They dont just build and race evo's its their specialty. anytime you go there there will be 5-6 regular road driven customer cars having a service or any other work done to them.

 

[bradc]

Remember that they are probably changing their oil a lot more frequently in their evo's. The transfer case oil is only supposed to be changed when you're changing the cambelt, ie around the 80000km mark, for that I'm going to stick to the recommendation, rather than something


http://www.teamrip.com/transfer_case_hypoid_gear_oil_recommendation_info.html

These guys are the biggest transmission/diff/transfer case builders in the USA for EVO's, look at what they recommend

 

[SiliconAngel]

To save this thread thrashing back and forth infinitely, I think it's safe to say people have provided enough information for you to go on, Bill - its up to you if you want to do further research or take the word of your mechanic. Either way it's your car and your decision; I know what I'd put in my car and I'm sure the other guys on here feel the same.

While constructive discussion is of course encouraged, further pointless arguement will be met with moderation