Dodgy clock (and Replacing it with a trip computer)

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Nahh just continue to pull. You could use a flat head screwdriver wrapped in a cloth or something to lever it out?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
good idea brad ... I did grab a screw driver but I didn't want to wreck the vinyl. Just gave up in the end ... Will try the cloth.
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
Paul if you're going to lever with a screwdriver and you need to lean against your dash, put something like a sheet of thick plastic (perspex or something) between the screwdriver and the dash. With a piece of cloth, you'll avoid scratches, but you could still indent or even crack your dash like that. By using a sheet of perspex you'll distribute the force over a much greater surface area :)

I'd still put some cloth under the perspex too, though, just to avoid scratches
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
DONT PUT ANYTHING UNDER IT TO LEAVER IT UP!!!

95% CHANCE YOU WILL SMASH THE CLOCK!! IVE SEEN IT HAPPEN!!!

JUST PUSH UP HARD ON THE SUN SHADE! NOT WITH YOUR THUMBS!!
USE YOUR WHOLE HANDS,
MAKE A FIST, STRAIGTEN YOUR FIRST FINGER ON EACH HAND....
PLACE THEM UNDER THE SHADE
(SO ITS LIKE A BAR RUNNING UNDER THE SHADE)
AND PUSH UP EVENLY ACCROSS THE WHOLE SHADE UP TILL IT POPS UP
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
*squints*

...

*gets sunglasses* :cool:

Ah! Um, I'd SERIOUSLY consider that warning - Carsten knows what he's talking about, so use a screwdriver at your peril!! :(
 

bogan bob

1 AYC Bar
Location
WA
First Name
Dion
Drive
'15 Amarok
Is the clock meant to turn off when you turn the engine off and remove the key? I had a problem where it wouldnt remember the time longer than a couple of hours when the car was switched off, but that was cos a fuse was out.
 

GavDaniels

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Gavin Daniels
Drive
2006 Mercedes Benz ML320CDI

Previously Owned
1997 Legnum VR-4 Type S
2000 Galant VR-4 Type V (Race Car) (regretful sale)
Hey Bob,

Clock should turn off when the ignition is off. If the clock turns on and off while driving this is symtamatic of the dry solder joint issue. If it looses time but displays ok when the ignition is on, then this would be the capacitors drying out.

Regards

Gavin
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
my problem with my clock was the plug at the back.. the terminal moved out of the plug. i didnt solder shit just moved it back in the female plug on the back of the clock and it was sweet..
sorry i didnt explain that very well.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
picture283pj0.jpg


picture280dv1.jpg
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
sorry bout the pic side by side, dunno how to change it
The <ENTER> key is your friend ;) Just hit Enter once between the ending image tag for the first image [/img] and the opening image tag for the second image
 

gilly

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
SA
First Name
Simon
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Type S
i noticed tonight that my clock has lost 20 minutes and cut out a couple of times while driving. I just tapped the top of the dash and it came back on. Guess I better follow the instructions on the previous pages!
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
The most important thing to remember is to use even pressure. There is a clear/tinted plastic cover that overlays over the clock assembly on the front. It is very easy to break.

There are four metal clips that hold the unit down (two front, two back). Quite a bit of force is needed, but the unit will pop out.

The worst thing about doing this, is that you are working against yourself. One part of you is saying I can pop this out no worries and the other is making sure you don't go too hard or the unit will break. It's like pressing the accelerator and brake at the same time.
 

turboalfa

Crunching Gears
Location
Queensland
First Name
Troy
Drive
Legnum
So I'm not the only one. My clock is dodgy also. Cuts out and have to reset it all the time. Will fix it this afternoon.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Troy
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Anyone know the order the wires are in the clock plug (eg black green blue purple).

Thnks in adv.
 

BuzzPuppy

OZVR4 Ambassador
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Gavin
Drive
レグナム Super VR-4
Sounds good to me too :D Mine's just started to do it (even though I've owned it for two months now). theNotorious, I'll see if I can take a pic for you but don't hold your breath :)
 

GavDaniels

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Gavin Daniels
Drive
2006 Mercedes Benz ML320CDI

Previously Owned
1997 Legnum VR-4 Type S
2000 Galant VR-4 Type V (Race Car) (regretful sale)
Hey There,

I don't remember what the order was, but it wouldn't be too hard to work out.

Was there 3 or 4 wires? I think there was 4.

1 will be ground, 1 will be constant 12v, 1 will be ignition switched 12v and the other will be light dimmer.

To find the ground pin, look for an electrolytic capacitor in the clock module and meter it's negative lead to the pins, the lowest resistance one should be ground.

Next take the constant 12v line and touch each of the other 3 pins. The one which causes the clock display to come on will be the switched 12v (Clock is not on with the ignition off).
Next turn on the headlights and take the light wire and touch the other 2 terminals. Whichever one makes the display dim is the light one.
The remaining pin is the constant 12v to keep the clock in time.

Otherwise, if I get time this weekend, I will pull my clock out and have a look.

Regards
Gavin
 

BuzzPuppy

OZVR4 Ambassador
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Gavin
Drive
レグナム Super VR-4
Clock fixed.

You're right, it is quite scary just "lifting with the bridged fingers" really REALLY hard upwards. But the dashboard plastic is quite malleable (soft) and has a bit of give, so if it were to hit the windscreen as it detaches (as mine sure did!), there is no harm done.

As Carsten mentioned, DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER TO LEVER IT UPWARDS because the transparent housing that allows you to see the LCD display is made of brittle perspex and would shatter quite easily under a point-load.

There were some clips to undo around the edge of the clock area and two chunky screws to detach the clock electronics assembly from the upper dashboard plastic. I check the solder joints and they were fine (it looked like it had been redone!) and all the capacitors were neither leaking or bulging.

Taking Brad's advice, I just bent ever-so-slightly the four metal pins that make up the power connector so they would make better contact with the power socket and it works fine. Nothing like train tracks @ 60km/h plus aiming for every minor divot/pothole to rough it up a bit :)

Thanks everyone, another clock fixed!
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
For those of you not up to the task of repairing these, then if you are prepaired to pay the postage to and from Melbourne, then it will cost you about $5 - $7 for the correct capacitors and I'll do the repairs for you. For the Melbourneites, catch me at a wash meet, and i'll return it next one.

I'm a complete Legnum/car nub, I'd love a hand getting the clock out and/or repairing it. Mine goes off and on at random and doesn't keep time at all.

I know the Blackburn carwash on Canterbury you guys meet at, used to get slurpees near that 7-11 as a kid every day! I'll be at the next meet :D
 

Taraska

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Queensland
First Name
Taraska
Drive
Black VR-4!!!!!!
Dodgy clock is not dodgy anymore! Easy job when you know what to remove. Thanks
 
Top Bottom