Official too lazy to search/stupid questions thread
- Thread starter bradc
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brake/accelerator combo? so you mean... foot off the brake and flat on the accelerator 
haha just stirring.. might give this a go one day soon... should prolly look into getting that tranny cooler also... i'm just too scared to go pulling off oil lines to the gearbox... hmmm
haha just stirring.. might give this a go one day soon... should prolly look into getting that tranny cooler also... i'm just too scared to go pulling off oil lines to the gearbox... hmmmI had already been toying with stalling up... but kinda worried about excess strain/heat on the gearbox doing it too hard or too often... especially w/o a cooler.
Whats the highest ppl would reccomend stalling on a auto... I noticed dawso did a 4K dump in the white legnum; but this was a manual? how does that compare to auto? My own testing; I never felt confident going over about 2500rpm so that was the highest I have tried.
G
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Does everyone have a fuel filler restrictor & flap thingy added at compliance? My facelift doesn't have one and I can look right down into the tank and see the fuel level.
Get a trans cooler first man.... You only need to go to about 2500rpm in the auto's as the load against the engine will spool the turbos ready for launch, just give them a second or so to get going :lol:
Even at 4k in the manual, the turbos hardly spooled as there was no load against the engine, but I launch from there as this is where the turbos spool REALLY fast when under load so it minimises launch lag
Me either :cursing:
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
1) You dont want to go stalling up to often without a tranny cooler for starters.
2) You will find that the t/c is fully engaged by 2800rpm so if you try and stall higher your brakes will start to let go. If you have even better brakes the imo you wil kill your t/c and other components in your tranny.
3) I rarely do stalled launches but the couple of times i have, it launched a lot harder than just jumping on the pedal.
Edit. Dawso beat me to it. So damn quick on the responses, me thinks you hover above the keyboard ready to pounce with your ever knowledgeable replies! lol
Front bar I can handle; its loss of oil etc that I have no idea on. Do I have to drain the oil then top it up?
Just want to have all bases covered before getting it apart and then going.. "oh #$^$"
.. and yes I have looked through the 'how to" thread
Just want to have all bases covered before getting it apart and then going.. "oh #$^$"
.. and yes I have looked through the 'how to" thread
Nah, all you do is disconnect it (As per the guide) and there is no forcing pressure in the system as the car is off, and it is sealed so it will not drain. The guide specifies to disconnect at the highest point in the system so there will be little to no loss.
You will need to top up the box with a bit more oil to cover the extra bit in the system, ie the cooler and lines to it, but thats about it
You will need to top up the box with a bit more oil to cover the extra bit in the system, ie the cooler and lines to it, but thats about it
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If you can, it's a good time to do a flush when you install the cooler as you already have the hose off so you're part way there. But as Dawso says, for just an install the oil spillage is minimal.
Thanks for the info... might look into this one... sounds pretty simple... just gotta source the oil... and go from there... as for the flush... my box has been flushed fully twice in 6 months lol. I think I'll just top up
So most ppl seem to go with the supercheap coolers yea? that kit that comes in the hard plastic cover.
So most ppl seem to go with the supercheap coolers yea? that kit that comes in the hard plastic cover.
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Yes, the Davies Craig one they sell is exactly the same as the PWR ones, just a sticker over the top of the stamped logo! I've inspected them closely, but ended up buying a PWR kit from Repco as the ones at my local Super Cheap looked bashed around a bit, opened & taped back up and they were missing the particular model I wanted.
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i know this is all prob written somewhere but i cant seem to find it.....
what oil/ fluid to use where
auto g/box
transfer case
rear diff (and ayc)
what oil/ fluid to use where
auto g/box
transfer case
rear diff (and ayc)
happymatch
Leaving Skid Marks
well, another lazy question
does anyone know the part number for pre fl front tow cover? and also, the auto trans gear level plastic thing to prevent the drinks and all that does not fall in to the thing ( can explain it well) that thng that everyone breaks. dimi, you broke one to just before you sold your car - whats the part numbr for that?
does anyone know the part number for pre fl front tow cover? and also, the auto trans gear level plastic thing to prevent the drinks and all that does not fall in to the thing ( can explain it well) that thng that everyone breaks. dimi, you broke one to just before you sold your car - whats the part numbr for that?
godzilla
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- QLD / Tweed Coast
- First Name
- Trevor
- Drive
- 1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Auto box = Mitsubishi SPIII or Amsoil Fully Synthetic ATF @ around 8ltr
Transfer Caae = SVG GL5 or Amsoil 75-90 Gear oil @ around 1ltr
Rear Diff = As above
Ayc = 1ltr of SPIII or Amsoil Fully Synthetic ATF
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